Things You Can Repair

Toaster ovens are great, when they work. One morning, my Delonghi EO1238 stopped working. No lights, no heat, nothing (except the pronounced timer ticking) – it was if the unit was unplugged from the wall. A quick check and yes it was plugged in. Check the outlet to make sure a circuit breaker didn't trip and yes the outlet was working too.

What to do? Here’s some quick options… 1) Throw this one away and buy a new one – but I just got this one a year or so ago and I don’t have an extra $60-$100 lying around for a new one. 2) Go without toasted bagels – but I really like toasted bagels. Or 3) Repair it. I mean really, how hard could toaster oven repair it be?

I did a quick search on the ‘net for a cause based on the symptoms: no power, no light, no heat, timer still make a ticking noise and it looks like a blown thermal fuse (NTE 8167) will be the culprit. A call to the local electronics store and they have the part in stock for $0.96 cents! This would probably cost $50 or more to have it fixed in a service center. After my search, I discovered that there are only a few problems toaster ovens face:

Here are my detailed steps to fix the Delonghi EO1238 Toaster Oven. This guide will probably work for fixing the Delonghi EO1200, Delonghi EO1251, Delonghi EO1258, and Delonghi EO1260 toaster oven models as well as a general guide for fixing any toaster oven - they are really that simple.

Toaster oven repair is an easy ‘do it yourself’ project. This project will take about 30 minutes; I would rate this a 3 on a scale of 1 to 10 for difficulty, and it will easily save you $50 dollars or more! If this helps you, there is a note on the bottom of this post on how you can say “Thanks!”

The tools for this are fairly common and if you don’t have them they are available for just a few dollars at the local store. Here are the tools and parts you will need for this project:

Now, a WORD OF WARNING: I am NOT an electric service technician or any type of repair person at all. My information is for provided for EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. By continuing, you implicitly agree to hold me harmless (indemnify me) for any loss, damage, or legal liability that may result by you continuing with this project. ONLY a professional should attempt to repair eclectic and/or electronic equipment. If you try this at home and you get hurt (or worse) or if it doesn't work – I am sorry, but I told you only professionals should attempt electronic repair.

Now that that’s said and out of the way and you still want to proceed, I recommend that you check and MAKE SURE that you have unplugged the toaster oven from the wall. Working on any electric appliance while connected to a power source could KILL YOU. So double check this one.

a single (1) Phillips Head screw on the bottom near the front of the toaster oven.

These three (3) screws are the only ones you will need to remove.

What are Torx screws anyway? Torx screws are specially designed “safety/tamper proof” screws that have a six point star design and are commonly used in consumer electronics assembly. You can pick up a Torx driver at the electronics store where you purchased the NTE 8167 fuse. If they don’t have it, try Frys, Radio Shack, Home Depot, Lowes, Sears – you get the idea.

Once you have the screws removed, the side panel can be removed by slightly plying the cover away from the oven and then pulling the cover towards the rear of the oven.

The side panel has three guides that fit into slots on the top of the over that you want to disengage without breaking.

Don’t worry, the side panel is fairly sturdy so I don’t think you will break it but I want you to be aware about the tabs that hold it in place.

2. Locating the Thermal Fuse.

With the toaster oven on its side, the thermal fuse is located near the top of the toaster oven in a protective plastic tube and connected to a black wire.

The fuse is held in place by bracket clamp secured by a nut.

You will need to loosen this nut so that the fuse and attached wire can be slide through the bracket clamp.

This was tough for me, but I discovered a little cheat! The head of the screw that the nut is attached to is available inside the oven. You could use your Pliers to hold the nut while you take your Phillips Head screwdriver and loosen it from the inside. I didn't discover this until I was putting everything back together.

Once the nut is loose, take your Needle Nose pliers and remove the lead and black wire attached to the timer mechanism.

Now that the lead wire is removed from the timer mechanism, you can slide the wire through the clamp and gain access to the fuse.

Slide the protective plastic tube back down the wire to expose the fuse.

You should have access to the fuse similar to this.

3. Replacing the Thermal Fuse

Now that you have access to the fuse, you can try and pry loose the crimped metal connectors that attach the fuse to the black wire. These are factory crimped connectors and mine were impossible so I had to cut the wire to remove the fuse.

Before you cut the wire, make sure your new fuse includes new metal connectors (mine did). If you have to cut the wire, cut it on the outside of the connector (opposite side of the fuse) but as close to the connector as possible. Do this for both sides of the fuse. This will leave you plenty of remaining wire to work with.

Now that the fuse has been removed, you will need to install a new fuse.

If you cut the wire, you will need to trim the wire back for a new connection. Use your Needle Nose pliers with wire trimmer (or any knife, razor blade, X-Acto knife, etc) and trim the wire.

Only remove enough wire to fit into the new connector – nothing more.

Once the wire is trimmed and ready:

Slide a new connector over the wire and then
Slide the wire from the fuse into the connector
Now take your pliers and crimp the connector. The connector will compress easily and securely join the two wires.

You will need to do this for both sides of the fuse – but make sure you still have the protective plastic cover on the wire!

Now that both sides of the fuse have been joined to the black wire, slide the protective plastic tube back over the fuse.

4. Re-Assembly.

It’s time to put everything back together. Just follow the instructions in reverse and everything will be finished soon:

Start with sliding the wire through the clamp.
Reattach the black wire’s lead to the timer.
Once the lead is attached, make sure the protective plastic cover is slide back into the clamp. Once you have it where you want it – tighten the clamp. It doesn't need to be hard tight – just snug enough to prevent the black wire from moving.
Put the side cover back on the unit. Start by aligning the three tabs on the top, slide the cover forward, and pop back into place.
Install the bottom Phillips Head screw.
Install the two (2) rear Torx screws.

Once everything is reassembled, you can plug the toaster back into the outlet. When you turn on the toaster oven you will now see the interior light working and the front red indicator lighting. You did it. Congratulations.

Viola– TOAST!

Now make yourself a nice cup of coffee and some cinnamon-sugar toast.

If you found this tutorial helpful, please consider saying thank you by leaving a tip for a cup of Joe or some bagels (I'm out)... You can click the tip jar image in the upper right hand corner or click here and you will be taken to PayPal to complete the transaction in total security. Check back often for other tutorials to fix your stuff.

Thanks.